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Cleaning with Bleach

1200 Views 2 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  Kuildeous
Just wanted to share with you a cleaning solution I've come up with. I'll probably make a How to/Informational youtube video in the near future, in case anyone is interested.

This is the most economical, effective, and safe method that I've found in my search for a cleaning solution. The following concentration will sanitize[SUP]1[/SUP]. Make sure that it says "Cleans and Disinfects", and that there is an EPA registration number on the label of the original bleach bottle.

Desired Final Concentration
Concentration = 0.02%
This is the CFOC National Health and Safety Performance Standard used in child care centers for food-contact items (eg. dishes, utensils, etc).

Dilution equation
(Concentration of original bleach)(Volume needed of original bleach) = (Final Concentration)(Final Volume of Diluted Bleach Solution)


Original Bottle of Bleach

Concentration = 8.25%
*Note: I'm using a concentrated bottle of bleach. Check the concentration of your starting bleach (found on the back label), as regular bleach is usually 5-6%

Desired Final Volume
32 oz Converted to mL = 946.353 mL
*I chose this final volume since I have a spray bottle of that size

X = 2.3 mL of bleach

Add 2.3 mL of bleach to spray bottle. Fill with water up to 32 oz mark.
*Note that you are not adding 32 oz of water to 2.3 mL of bleach; you are adding enough water so that 32 oz is your final volume.
I used a spare syringe to measure the 2.3 mL.

You do have to make this solution daily, or as needed, for maximum effectiveness, as bleach will break down into salt and water[SUP]2[/SUP].


1 [/SUP]Meaning, kill 99.9% of germs on a surface in a shorter period of time; whereas 'disinfect' means to kill all germs listed on the label in a longer period of time or with a stronger solution. Spray onto pre-cleaned surface, allow to sit for 2 minutes, then wipe off or air dry.

[SUP]2 [/SUP]There are different factors that affect the degradation of diluted bleach solutions, including temperature and light, which is why bleach is sold in opaque bottles. The pre-diluted solutions of bleach available on the market contain stabilizing agents. The one that I currently use (since I have a bottle left) is Clorox Anywhere Hard Surface, because it's safe to use on food-contact surfaces. Note that the bleach concentration is 0.0095%. It's also kind of expensive, since I use it liberally, which is why I started researching to make my own.


Please, please follow safety protocols and instructions found on the manufacturer label.

[HR][/HR]Sources: CDC: Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, California Childcare Health Program Health & Safety Notes, NC Child Care Health and Safety Resource Center, and a few others; sorry I read through like 40 tabs of websites and can't remember them all. Can search for them again if requested.
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I also wanted to make a note as to why I no longer clean with vinegar. Vinegar is great for certain uses, such as dissolving calcium and mineral deposits on your showerhead, drains, coffee maker, etc; however, is NOT recommended for use as a disinfectant. While vinegar may be effective against limited household bacteria, commercial disinfectants registered with the EPA, such as Bleach, are highly effective against pathogens, including antibiotic-resistant bacteria, and even some viruses.

That's why I use the above diluted bleach solution to clean my rat cage, especially since I'm dealing with urine, feces, and other bodily fluids.
I had thought the primary purpose of vinegar was to mask smells, which was my intention when I get my DCN and want to encourage ratties to use the potties on the lowest level. For deep cleaning, I intend to continue using bleach.

But I may have misunderstood the nature of vinegar. This is not just my first rat. It's the first pet I've taken care of. Please disabuse me of any wrong assumptions.
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